[Vwpickups] Help replacing brakelight bulbs in a 2006 Jetta wagon

[Bernie]

Hey Gang,

Long time, no chat (or "Yugo's" awarded.)

This is unrelated to the VW Caddy but I'm hoping there's some assistance to be had anyways.

I've got a 2006 Jetta TDI now. Very nice ride and loaded up, also has the 5-speed Tiptronic automatic tranny, which seems quite nice.
The problem I just noticed is that only the 3rd brake light operating, where once there was 3 lights. I tried looking at the fuse panel but it's in Vulcan hiroglyphics, so that's useless. The same is to be said for the owner's manual, which seems to default to "see dealer."

I'm suspecting both brakelight bulbs are toast and the problem I have is...wait for it....How the hell do I get them out?
I know it's from inside the cargo area and I can release the clips but it doesn't seem possible to remove the assembly without disassembling something else in that area. Am I missing some little trick or is it a matter of patience and slight-of-hand along with a blessing from God and a blood sacrifice?

Thanks in advance.
Bernie
Calgary
------
1987 Yamaha Virago XVS1100
2006 VW Jetta GLS TDI Wagon